Archive for the ‘Appliance Parts America How To’s’ Category

Replace a Refrigerator Door Seal

Friday, May 28th, 2010

As we’ve mentioned in the past, the refrigerator is one of your home’s biggest energy hogs.

The seal/gasket on a refrigerator door is what keeps the cool air in. Because your refrigerator can account for up to 10% of your monthly electricity bill, it’s important to inspect this seal regularly and change it whenever the gasket is frayed or torn in any way. (more…)

How To Clean a Stove with Baking Soda

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010


For the sake of brevity, we’ve decided to narrow the types of stove tops and ranges in this article to three types:  the unsealed gas stovetop, the unsealed electric stove stop, and the sealed glass electric stovetop. These three types of ranges are the stovetop ranges I’ve had the most experience with. Luckily for you and I, all three of these can be cleaned with little more than a box of baking soda (hardly any, really) and some vinegar. Baking soda is naturally quite abrasive (but will never scratch glass) and also super absorbent;  as such, it makes a great kitchen cleaner. Your household vinegar is roughly 5% acetic acid, which not only makes it the perfect thing for cleaning up alkaline (base) powders, but it also kills most germ, like bacteria such as Salmonella as well as any other soap, especially if it is left on a surface for 5 or more minutes.


Below are the steps to cleaning a stove with baking soda, as well as some supplementary information. To the right you will find a couple of organic (Vegan Society approved) kitchen and surface cleaners I think you might find useful.


Steps to Cleaning a Stove

Whether you have a gas stove or an electric stove, you’ll want to remove the elements if you can before cleaning the stove. On our gas stove, removing the elements is simply a matter of picking them up off the stove and stacking them on the counter next to it. Some electric stoves require that you pull the elements in a certain direction before you can lift them out and off of the stove. This usually unplugs the element which breaks the circuit and allows you to clean the stove more quickly and more safely.


Before you start cleaning the stove with any liquids or solvents it would be a good idea to brush away any removable debris. Pieces of rice, chunks of dried up meat, anything crunchy: these should all be removed to help you clean the stove more efficiently. Debris can get in the way and reduce the abrasiveness of the baking soda when you’re trying to remove tough spots and stains. Simply brush the debris aside and start preparing a baking soda paste 1:1 with water, using as much baking soda as you think you’ll need for the whole stove. I use ½ cup of baking soda and ½ cup of water, usually.


Lift a bit of the baking soda paste out of the bowl with a cotton cloth and apply it to the stains that look like they’ll be a pain in the ass. Apply a firm thumb and finger to the cloth and start scrubbing in a circular motion. Baking soda works because it’s a natural abrasive, and a good one too, but it does require a bit of effort to get really tough stains off of stove’s surface. Some stains, as most of us with gas stoves know, are simply impossible to remove with just baking soda, but we’ll get to that in a moment.


Once you’ve hit all of the tough stains with the baking soda, you can apply the rest of your paste to the stove top quite liberally. After I’ve touched up the tough stovetop stains, I smear the baking soda paste all over and start scrubbing the entire stove surface down. This picks up little stains, smears, and debris up quite quickly, and you’ll notice that the baking soda starts to get saturated with leftover oils and foods, which then clumps and can be easily removed with a brush. If you don’t want to use a brush, you’ll dig this next step.


Now it’s almost certain that you have a stove covered with chunks of baking soda and grime, so it’s time to use the vinegar. This is the fun part. Spray a decent amount of vinegar on your stove. The vinegar will not only kill germs on contact, but the acids in the vinegar will then be neutralized by the baking soda, reducing all of it back into a liquid that can be soaked up quite easily with the same cotton rag you used to apply it with. Simply rinse out your rag, wring it, and then wipe up what’s left of the fizzling baking soda and vinegar.


Voila, you’re done cleaning a stove with all-natural ingredients, you may put the stove rings back on now. Baking soda is a great natural abrasive, and vinegar kills just as many germs as any other cleaning product on your grocer’s shelves. So, you’ve scoured and disinfected your stovetop without the use of harsh or toxic chemicals that may have ended up in your food, eventually. Of course, for those really tough stains, I would recommend an organic, plant-based surface cleaner from a company like Ecover or Seventh Generation.


Cleaning Stove Rings with Baking Soda


You can use baking soda as a natural stove ring cleaner as well. Most recipes call for a large pot of boiling water and a cup of baking soda. What you do is put the rings in a large pot. Fill the pot with water until the rings are completely submerged, then toss in about a cup of baking soda. Put the pot of water on the burner and bring the water to a boil. You may have to do this twice, considering you’ll need at least one of the rings to put the pot on.


Let the rings sit in the boiling water for a while. The baking soda will work it’s magic, dislodging a lot of the soot and grease that has been building up on your stove rings. The water will change color, and you’ll notice chunks floating around. Once you’re satisfied with the baking soda’s job, remove the pot from heat and let the water cool. You can follow this up by scrubbing the stove rings down with a little organic soap and a green scrub pad.

How To Locate Your Model Number

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010

How to find your model number on your appliance.

Consumers have many things to take into consideration when purchasing a new appliance. Whilst it is relatively easy to compare, say, price or features of a product, it is more difficult to source reliable and objective information on the energy efficiency of a particular appliance.

Where is my make and model number on my washer and dryer?
Your make is located on the main control panel of the product Your model and serial numbers are usually located inside the door, in back of the control panel, or around the door frame of the washer or dryer Here is a picture that might help you out. Click the picture to enlarge it.



How do i know what type of burner i have for my grill?
There are many burners for all types of grills the best way we can do that is by you bringing the old burner in and we can take a look we have a wide selection in stock. Here is a picture that might help you out. Be sure to take the measurements also. Measurements are very important. Clcik on the picture to enlarge it.

Here are Some pictures that might help you in locating some Model numbers and Serial numbers for your appliance.
Click the image to view


Cooktop
Dishwasher
Dryer
Stack Dryer

Range Hood
Side By Side Refrigerator
Refrigerator

Washer


How To Choose a Washer/Dryer

Monday, December 21st, 2009

Dryers

All dryers spin clothes around and blow hot air on them. How to select a dryer depends on your needs. The details are what drive the choice of a machine:

  • Energy source: Whether you choose a gas dryer or an electric one will be based largely on what kind of hookup is available at the new dryer’s location. Gas appliances usually cost slightly more initially, but tend to be more energy- efficient. A leading consumer affairs magazine estimates that a gas dryer costs 30 cents less per load to operate.
  • Capacity: Since manufacturers define capacity differently, one “extra large” dryer might not be the same as another.When choosing what dryer to buy, compare capacity using the cubic foot measurement. If your space is limited, stackable washer-dryer units are available.
  • Coordinate the capacity of your dryer with that of your washer. You’ll defeat the purpose of increased efficiency if you have a super-sized dryer but a washer that can only supply a half-capacity load (or vice-versa). The general rule is to have about twice as much capacity in the dryer than in the washer. So if you buy a 3.3 or 3.5 cu. ft. washer, you will need a 7 cu. ft. dryer. (You need more dryer space because the clothes need room to flop around.)
  • When in doubt, err on the side of larger when choosing a dryer. More dryer capacity will allow the clothes to dry more quickly, which saves money on your energy bill and is better for the environment. Like most large appliances today, a dryer will last for years. Plan for the future and consider possible changes in your family size when buying a dryer.
  • Controls: As with washers, controls on dryers have become more sophisticated, yet easier to use. Digital displays and one-touch selection can be programmed and preset to meet your drying needs. For a simpler operation, choose dial or push-button controls.
  • Temperature settings: Different fabrics require different drying times and temperatures. Your clothes will look newer longer, plus have fewer wrinkles, if they are dried using the correct settings. At a minimum, most machines offer “cotton” and “permanent press” settings, with “more dry” and “less dry” options. Choose a dryer with settings that meet your needs.
  • A cool-down cycle will keep the drum spinning for a certain amount of time after the clothes are dry in order to prevent wrinkling.
  • Noise level: Choose a quiet machine if your dryer will be in or near a living area. Some newer models have additional insulation and reinforced frames to reduce operating noise.
  • Moisture sensors: While older dryers use thermostats or timers, newer models have moisture sensors that stop the cycle when the humidity in the drum falls below a certain level. This prevents over-drying and extends the life of your garments. This feature can also make ironing easier and save energy.
  • Drying rack: This feature allows you to dry heavier or bulkier items — such as canvas shoes — without tumbling.
  • Drum light: Socks and other small items can “disappear” in the back of the machine. A drum light makes it easier to find them.
  • Lint filter: Higher-end models have sensors that warn you when the lint filter is blocked. Whichever model you choose, make sure to vent the dryer properly and clean the lint filter regularly to avoid a risk of fire.

Washers

Front Load vs. Top Load

The biggest trend in washers today is the front-load machine (also known as H-axis). These washers open from the front, like a commercial washer in a Laundromat. In contrast, a traditional washer (V-axis) opens from the top. How to buy the best washerdepends on your space and needs.

For buying a clothes washer, keep in mind each type has specific features:

Front Load:

  • Can be stacked with a dryer on top to conserve space.
  • Spins clothes faster than a top-load, extracting more water. This saves energy (and money), because it allows you to dry a load of clothes in a shorter amount of time.
  • Uses a wash process that is more gentle on clothing.
  • Requires a special type of detergent made for front-load machines. These detergents are becoming more common on grocery store shelves, but they might not be available everywhere. They also might cost a little more.
  • Costs more. Prices vary, but expect to pay 30 percent to 40 percent more for a front-load machine than you would for a comparable top-load machine.
  • Uses less water, which lowers utility bills. This savings can offset the additional cost of the machine, but it usually takes several years for the numbers to balance.
  • Top Load:
  • Includes a wider variety of available models, colors and features.
  • Costs less initially, but is less energy-efficient.
  • Offers easier access to the wash tub.
  • Uses regular detergent.
  • Cannot easily be stacked to save space.


Features to Consider

Your decision probably will be based on specific features that you want in a clothes washer. Different manufacturers use varying names for the same features, so do your research thoroughly. Here are a few things to look for in a washer:

Capacity: Since manufacturers define capacity differently, one “extra large” washer may not be the same as another. When comparing capacity, use the cubic foot measurement to make comparisons.

If your space is limited, you might want to look for a stackable washer-dryer unit. These are available either full-sized — with a front-load washer — or in smaller, apartment-sized sets.

Match the capacity of your washer to your dryer. You will defeat the purpose of increased efficiency if you have a super-sized washer but a dryer that will hold only half the load.

Like most large appliances today, a washer will last for years, so plan for the future and consider possible changes in your family size.

Tub material: Some tubs are made of porcelain-coated steel, which can deteriorate if the porcelain chips. In higher-end models, look for a plastic tub that will last the life of the machine. The best models have stainless steel tubs.

Water levels: The most efficient wash uses only enough water to cover the clothes. A washer with several water level settings allows you to use small amounts of water for small loads of clothes.

Cycles: Many models include permanent press, delicate and extra soak or extra rinse cycles. Look for a model with options that will give your clothes the care they need.

Different wash/spin speed combinations allow you to wash more types of clothing in ways that are safest for the fabric.

Water temperature: Using the correct water temperature will make your garments look better and last longer. Detergents, bleaches and fabric softeners work best at specific temperatures. Many of today’s washers include several wash/rinse temperature options.

In situations where the water coming into the washer is particularly cold, automatic temperature regulators make sure the wash water stays at a constant, correct temperature. For example, the standard hot/cold mix that a washer uses to create “warm” water might not give warm enough results if it is winter in Minnesota and the water coming from the cold pipe is frigid. Temperature regulators add different amounts of hot water as needed to make sure “warm” is the correct temperature.

If you will be washing items that require sanitizing, look for a model that offers a temperature boost function. Even an all-hot wash from a regular home hot-water heater might not reach a high enough temperature to kill germs.

Noise level: If your washer will be in or near a living area, the noise the unit makes will be a consideration. Some newer models offer additional insulation and reinforced frames to reduce operating noise.

Safety: Front-load machines include an automatic lock function that prevents the door from opening while the drum is spinning. The same feature is available on certain top-load models.

Controls: Washing machine controls have become more sophisticated and generally easier to use. Digital displays and one-touch selection can be programmed and preset to meet your washing needs. For a simpler wash process, choose a machine with dial and/or push-button controls.

Bleach and fabric softener dispensers: The chemicals (detergent, bleach, fabric softener) you use are a key part of garment care. Dispensers will automatically disperse them at the correct time.

Energy Star rating: The Energy Star label — conferred by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency — indicates that a washing machine uses 35 percent to 50 percent less water and 50 percent less energy than a non-labeled machine. That makes the machine better for the environment and better for your wallet.

How To Choose a Dishwasher

Monday, December 21st, 2009

How to Choose a Dishwasher Led by high-end, stainless-steel European models, today’s dishwashers are extremely quiet thanks to extra insulation. They’re also more energy efficient than they were in the past, using fewer kilowatt-hours per wash cycle, less water, and an air-dry option that doesn’t require heat. To further cut energy costs, choose a dishwasher with internal water heating; it increases temperatures to grease-dissolving levels so the machine doesn’t place extra demands on your home’s hot water heater.

While portable dishwashers are available, most models are built-ins and can be concealed behind panels that match your cabinetry if you desire. Top-of-the-line machines feature electronic touch-pad controls, stainless-steel interiors, and special wash cycles such as crystal, china, and pots/pans. Less-costly models employ push buttons or combine buttons with a dial. These models usually offer three cycles: light, normal, and heavy.

Kitchen appliances can be much more complex that other household appliances. For instance, the refrigerator is one of the few appliances you own that has to run continuously. That’s why, it’s important to know how to pick out the right appliance for you before you invest your money.

How to Choose a Refrigerator

Monday, December 21st, 2009

Refrigerators’ energy conservation has improved a lot since mandated standards were set in 1993 and 1998. Today’s refrigerator-freezer models also offer a lot more convenience. You can still get the basic 18-cubic-foot, freezer-on-top model with wire shelves, but the most popular style offers 20 cubic feet of storage; adjustable glass shelves; meat keeper with temperature control; vegetable crisper with humidity control; ice-maker; and door bins.

Next in cost and convenience are models with the freezer located below the refrigerator (a very good option for people with bad backs) and 22-cubic-foot capacity. Side-by-side designs and water- and ice-dispensing “convenience centers” built right into the door add further appeal. Built-in refrigerator-freezers and commercial, stainless-steel models are top-of-the-line choices for luxurious looks or serious, high-volume storage.

How much refrigerator do you need? One rule of thumb says plan on 12 cubic feet for two people and 2 more cubic feet for each additional household member, but other considerations also matter. If you like to stock up during sales, or cook often for crowds, the more room the better. Side-by-side models are easiest to organize, but the smaller models have relatively narrow freezers. Make sure the model you buy can fit a frozen turkey or pizza! In all cooling sections, look for pull-out, roll-out bins and baskets that make it easy to see everything without having to dig around, squandering energy (yours as well as the refrigerator’s!).

Beyond the main fridge, if you’ve got the room, a separate, under-counter refrigerator for soft drinks and a wine cooling compartment are entertaining options. If you’re a serious entertainer, you may want to look into ice makers that fit into the space of a trash compactor and produce large quantities of ice daily.

How To Choose An Oven

Monday, December 21st, 2009

The traditional range or stove, a single unit with cooktop above and oven below, is an affordable, space-conserving solution still chosen by most homeowners. But it’s just one of the cooking options offered today.

Some serious home cooks choose commercial-style stoves with six or eight burners instead of four, basting and grilling functions, and built-in warming ovens. (Real commercial stoves pose special challenges, such as special ventilation systems and noncombustible walls and floors, when used in the home, so commercial-style may be easier to live with.) Other people love the new modular cooktops that let you add burners, downdrafts, griddles, deep-fry and steamer units, woks, rotisseries, and grills. And these are just a few examples of what’s available!

A modular approach to overall kitchen design is a pronounced trend. Wall ovens separate from cooktops let you create several cooking work stations instead of just one. A double wall oven stacks two ovens to save space and deliver twice the baking/roasting capacity, which many people find useful for special occasions. And you can still get two-oven stoves, with one oven below the cooking surface and the other well above, at cabinet height.
The first decision in range shopping has always been gas versus electric. Many serious cooks prefer gas for its instant response, precise controllability, and lower operating cost over time. Others praise the evenness of electric heat and the lower initial cost of the appliance.

Today, you can get the best of both heating methods with “dual fuel” ranges that let you mix gas and electric heat sources; for example, gas cooktop burners and an electric convection oven/broiler. Convection ovens, most often electric, use heated air to cook up to twice as fast as conventional ovens that rely on radiant heating action. You can even get a combination microwave/convection oven.

Electric coils are the most popular kind of electric burners, and the least costly. Smooth-top surfaces are offered with one of three heat source types: radiating electric coils beneath the glass surface, halogen burners, or magnetic-induction elements. All require thick, flat-bottom cookware. If gas is your choice, sealed burners are easiest to clean, and a pilotless ignition system means no hot spot when burners are off. Commercial-style glass stoves offer high BTUs (British thermal units, the measure of cooking heat) and high style. They require heavy-duty ventilation systems.

What about controls? Controls that are located on the front or on the side of the appliance are most common and convenient, but universal access means just that: While someone in a wheelchair can reach front-situated controls easily, unfortunately, so can a curious toddler. People with young children may prefer controls located on the backsplash, out of reach of exploring fingers. Wherever they’re located, controls should be easy to understand and operate. Top-of-the-line ovens may include electronic temperature readouts and touch-pad, rather than knob or dial, controls.

While many people like to blend refrigerators and dishwashers into the cabinetry with matching fronts, the latest trend is to keep ranges visible. However, if you do want to de-emphasize your oven, the easiest way is with an under-counter model. (Make sure the oven you choose is designed for under-counter use, because not all are.) You may install a cooktop directly above the oven or locate it elsewhere in the kitchen. A cooktop directly over an under-counter oven functions much the same as a conventional range, but, with no range backsplash and with the control knobs located on the countertop, the result is a more integrated look.

Cleaning baked-on spills from the cooktop has always been a challenge, but several options make short work of them. For easiest cooktop cleaning, consider ranges with ceramic glass cooktops housing electric or halogen burners; simpler knobs and handles; and a top and backsplash constructed from a single piece of metal, so there’s no seam to collect spills. Self-cleaning ovens come in two varieties: one that uses a high-heat cycle that turns cooked-on spills into ash you can wipe away, another that offers a continuous-clean function.

Range Hoods

If you don’t have a ventilation fan above your cooktop that vents to the attic or outside, you’ll want a range hood with ventilation fan built in. Why? Even if you don’t find some cooking odors objectionable, vaporized grease can dull beautiful new kitchen surfaces, and moisture can compromise the efficiency of home insulation. The solution is an updraft range hood that funnels cooking grease and smoke into one area so that the fan can draw it through a duct to the outside.

Filters capture additional grease and odors. Look for range hoods that come in copper, stainless steel, and other good-looking, easy-care materials, or customize a standard hood with ceramic tile to create a major focal point, furthering your decorating scheme. As an alternative, down-draft ventilation, usually part of a cooktop or grill, also employs a fan and duct arrangement. Units that rise above cooktop level provide the most effective venting.